Country Guide

The Atlanta (Bangkok; tel. 02252-6069): It's more or less "love it or leave it" at the Atlanta, one of Bangkok's quirkiest, most atmospheric haunts. Rooms are basic, but the hotel lobby is still decorated in the original Art Deco theme of the 1950s (the oldest unrennovated hotel in Bangkok).

Phra-Nang Inn (Krabi; tel. 07563-7130): From its rustic Thai-style log cabin exterior, to guest rooms with Chinese tiled floors, stucco walls pressed with tiny shells, canopy beds with seashell garlands, and odd slate tiled bathrooms, the Felix never fails to delight.

The Princess Village (Ko Samui; tel. 07742-2216): Ko Samui's Chaweng Beach has a slew of choices, but none as exotic as Princess Village. Thai-style houses on stilts surround lily ponds and gardens. While other places are definitely more modern, here you'll feel surrounded by exotic Thailand night and day.

The Golden Triangle Inn (Chiang Rai; tel. 05371-1339): One of the older choices in Chiang Rai, Golden Triangle keeps it simple and personalized. Preserving gardens and maintaining quaint guest rooms, the staff goes out of its way to make your stay enjoyable.

Lotus Village (Sukhothai; tel. 05562-1484): An atmospheric guesthouse with fine, raised bungalows of teak and a certain mellow malaise that makes the place appealing (not far from the market and city center).

Tamarind Village (Chiang Mai; tel. 05341-8896): New on the scene and a masterful little escape of an enclosed compound right in the center of the old city in Chiang Mai, Tamarind Village is budget boutique and quite cozy in a surprisingly pleasant blend of smoothed concrete, rattan matting and local fabrics and carving.

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