Hawaii Tourism: Suggested Itineraries

What should I do in Hawaii? This is the most common question that readers ask me. The purpose of this chapter is to give you my expert advice on the best things to see and do on each island, and how to do them in an orderly fashion so you are not driving madly from one end of the island to the other.

First, here's the best advice I can give you: Do not plan to see more than one island per week. With the exception of the ferry between Maui and Lanai, getting from one island to another is an all-day affair once you figure in packing, checking out of and into hotels, driving to and from airports, and dealing with rental cars, not to mention time actually spent at the airport and on the flight. Don't waste a day of your vacation seeing our interisland air terminals.

Second, don't max out your days. This is Hawaii -- allow some time to do nothing but relax. Remember that you most likely will arrive jet-lagged, so it's a good idea to ease into your vacation. In fact, exposure to sunlight can help reset your internal clock, so I include time at the beach on day one of most of these itineraries.

Third, if this is your first trip to Hawaii, think of this as a "scouting" trip. Hawaii is too beautiful, too sensual, too enticing to see just once in a lifetime. You'll be back. You don't need to see and do everything on this trip.

Finally, keep in mind that the following itineraries are designed to appeal to a wide range of people.

One last thing -- you will need a car to get around the islands. Oahu has an adequate public transportation service, but even so, it's set up for Hawaii residents, not tourists carrying coolers and beach toys (all carry-ons must fit under the bus seat). So plan to rent a car. But also plan to get out of the car as much as possible. Hawaii is not a place to "view" from your car window. You have to get out to smell the sweet perfume of plumerias, to hear the sound of the wind through a bamboo forest, and to plunge into the gentle waters of the Pacific.

A Week on Oahu

The island of Oahu is so stunning that the alii, the kings of Hawaii, made it the capital of the island nation. I've presumed that you are staying in Waikiki -- if you are in another location, be sure to factor in the time for traveling.

Day 1: Arrival & Waikiki Beach --After you get off the plane, lather up in sunscreen, grab your sunglasses and hat, and head for the most famous beach in the world -- Waikiki Beach. If you have kids in tow, or you can't handle a whole afternoon in Hawaii's intense sun, you might consider checking out Hawaii's water world by dropping by the Waikiki Aquarium, or learning about Hawaii's unique culture at the Bishop Museum at Kalia. For in insight into Waikiki's past, take the Waikiki Historic Trail, a 2-mile trail marked with bronzed surf boards. Be sure to catch the sunset (anywhere on Waikiki Beach will do), and get an early dinner.

Day 2: Pearl Harbor & Honolulu's Chinatown--Head to the USS Arizona Memorial at Pearl Harbor. Get there as early as possible -- by the afternoon the lines are 2 hours long. While you are there be sure to see the USS Missouri Memorial and the USS Bowfin Submarine Museum & Park. On your way back, stop in Chinatown for lunch and take my self-guided walking tour of this unique area. In the afternoon, take a nap or head for the beach at Ala Moana Beach Park or a shopping spree across the street at the Ala Moana Center.Plan to have dinner in Honolulu or the surrounding area.

Day 3: North Shore & the Polynesian Cultural Center --Start your day with a drive to the North Shore. If you're up early enough, have breakfast in the quaint town of Haleiwa. if not at least stop and get a picnic lunch before you beach-hop down the coast of the North Shore and choose from some of the world's most beautiful beaches, like Waimea Beach Park, which is calm for swimming in summer, but gets pounded with 30- and 40-foot waves in winter. Any time after 12:30pm, head for the Polynesian Cultural Center in Laie. Allow at least 2 hours to tour this miniglimpse of the Pacific. Continue driving down the coast road to the small town of Kailua. Stay for dinner here to avoid the traffic back to Waikiki.

Day 4: Snorkeling in Hanauma Bay & Watching Marine Life at Sea Life Park --If it's not Tuesday (when the park is closed), head out in the morning for the spectacular snorkeling at Hanauma Bay. After a couple of hours wander down the coast to Sea Life Park. If you have kids, this is a must-stop. Otherwise, you can continue "beach-hopping" down the coastline -- check out Sandy Beach and Makapuu Beach Park to see which one appeals to you. Then turn back to take the Pali Highway (be sure to stop at the Pali Lookout) back to Waikiki.

Day 5: Rainforest Hike, Historic Honolulu & Hawaiian Culture--You probably could use a day out of the sun by now, so try a short hike into the rainforest, just a 15-minute drive from downtown Honolulu. Be sure to wear good hiking or trail shoes for the Manoa Falls Trail, and bring mosquito repellent. Next, head for downtown Honolulu to see some of the city's historic sites, including the Iolani Palace, Kawaiahao Church, Mission Houses Museum, and the Hawaii Maritime Center. For a view of where you've been go to the top of the Aloha Tower, at the Aloha Tower Marketplace, for a bird's-eye view of Honolulu. Stop for lunch either at the Marketplace or one of the nearby restaurants. Spend the afternoon at the Bishop Museum to immerse yourself in Hawaiian culture.

Day 6: Kailua Beach--On your last full day on Oahu travel over the Pali Highway to the windward side of the island and spend a day at Kailua Beach. Pick up a picnic lunch at Good to Go. This is the perfect beach to just relax or snorkel or try something different like kayaking or windsurfing. You can spend the entire day here or you can take an afternoon hike at the Hoomaluhia Botanical Gardens.

Day 7: Final Day: Shopping & Art--Been having too much fun to shop for gifts for your friends back home? You can find a great selection of stores in Waikiki at the Ala Moana Shopping Center, the DFS Galleria, and the Royal Hawaiian Shopping Center. If you're more interested in looking than buying, check out the Honolulu Academy of Arts, the Contemporary Museum, or the Hawaii State Art Museum. On your way back to the airport, be sure to stop at one of the Maunakea Street lei shops in Chinatown to buy a sweet-smelling souvenir of your trip.

A Week on the Big Island of Hawaii

A week is barely enough time to see the entire Big Island of Hawaii; 2 weeks would be better. But if your schedule doesn't allow more time, this tour will let you see the highlights of this huge island (twice the size of all the other islands combined). The itinerary is set up for people staying either in Kailua-Kona or on the Kohala Coast, and I suggest you spend at least 2 nights in Volcano Village to enjoy one of the stars of the Big Island, Hawaii Volcanoes National Park.

Day 1: Arrival & Beach Time--After you settle into your hotel head for the beach: snorkelers should go to Kahaluu Beach Park, surfers to White Sands Beach, privacy buffs to Kekaha Kai State Park (Kona Coast State Park), and beach aficionados can choose from Anaehoomalu Bay, Hapuna Beach, or Kaunaoa Beach (Mauna Kea Beach), depending on whether you want to snorkel, body board, or just relax. When the sun starts to wane, head for old Kailua-Kona town and wander through the Hulihee Palace, Mokuaikaua Church, and Kamehameha's Compound at Kamakahonu Bay. Find a spot to watch the sunset (either on the pier or along the seawall), then head for dinner in either Kailua-Kona or Keauhou.

Day 2: Out on the Water Then Drive to Hawaii Volcanoes National Park --Since you most likely will be up early your first day in Hawaii (and still on mainland time), take advantage of it and book a morning sailing/snorkeling tour on the Fair Wind to Kealakekua Bay, a marine-life preserve. Spend the morning floating in a rainbowed sea of fish and enjoy a terrific lunch on board the sailing catamaran. After you return to Keauhou, start driving south. Great stops along the way are Puuhonua O Honaunau National Historical Park, South Point, and Green Sand Beach (Papakolea Beach). Then head up Mauna Kea Mountain to the Hawaii Volcanoes National Park and stay at one of the many, quaint bed-and-breakfasts in the tiny village of Volcano.

Day 3: Exploring an Active Volcano --The highlight of your trip most likely will be the time you spend in the incredible Hawaii Volcanoes National Park. I recommend spending the morning exploring the park and taking hikes. Your first stop should be the Kilauea Visitors Center. Then explore Halemaumau Crater, Thurston Lava Tube, Devastation Trail, and all the other sites in the crater. Find out from the rangers how to get to the current lava flow. In the afternoon drive down to the current flow and walk out as far as the rangers will allow. Go eat a nice dinner in Volcano and return to the flow after dark, armed with a flashlight, water bottle, and jacket. Since you were there during the day, the path to the volcano after dark will be familiar to you. Seeing the ribbon of red lava snake its way down the side of the mountain and then thunder into the ocean is a sight you will never forget. You are going to be tired after this full day, so I recommend spending another night in Volcano.

Day 4: Touring Old Hawaii: Hilo Town, Akaka Falls, Waipio Valley & Cowboy Country--It's just a 45-minute drive from Volcano to Hilo, so plan to arrive early in the morning, grab a cup of coffee at Bears' Coffee and wander through the old town, being sure to see Banyan Drive, Liliuokalani Gardens, Lyman Museum & Mission House, the Pacific Tsunami Museum, and the wonderful botanical gardens like Nani Mau Gardens, Hawaii Tropical Botanical Garden, and World Botanical Garden. Head up the Hamakua Coast, stopping at Akaka Falls and planning a lunch stop in Honokaa. After lunch, be sure to see Waipio Valley, the birthplace of Hawaii's kings, before heading for Waimea. Spend some time in this cowboy town and at the Parker Ranch Visitor Center and Museum. Spend the night along the Kohala Coast.

Day 5: The Kohala Coast: Stepping Back in Time--Get an early start on your trip back in time. The first stop is just south of Kawaihae, at the Puukohola Heiau National Historic Site, the temple Kamehameha built to the war god to insure his success in battle. Allow at least an hour to view the temple and wander through the visitor center. Keep driving up Highway 270 to the Lapakahi State Historical Park for a view of a typical 14th-century Hawaiian village and the Mo'okini Luakini Heiau. Plan a lunch stop in Hawi or Kapaau at either Bamboo or Kohala Rainbow Cafe and stop by The Original King Kamehameha Statue in Kapaau. The final stop on your northward journey is the Pololu Valley Lookout. On your way back, in the late afternoon (the best time for viewing), be sure to stop at the Puako Petroglyph Archaeological District. If it's Friday, make reservations at the Kona Village Luau for the perfect ending to your trip back in time.

Day 6: Mauna Kea: Where the Gods Live--Sleep in, have a lazy morning at the beach, and in the afternoon, plan to explore Hawaii's tallest mountain (and dormant volcano), Mauna Kea. You need a four-wheel-drive vehicle to climb to the top of the 13,796-foot Mauna Kea, so I recommend you book with the experts, Mauna Kea Summit Adventures for a 7- to 8-hour sojourn up this mountain, sacred to the Hawaiians and treasured by astronomers around the globe.

Day 7: Relaxing or Shopping--Depending on how much time you have on your final day, I recommend either relaxing on the beach or being pampered in a spa. Spa-goers have a range of terrific spas among the Kohala resorts to choose from. Shoppers have lots to choose from.

A Week on Maui

I've outlined the highlights of Maui for those who just have 7 days and want to see everything. Two things I suggest: First, spend 2 nights in Hana, a decision you will not regret, and second, take the Trilogy boat trip to Lanai for the day. I've designed this itinerary assuming you'll stay in West Maui for 5 days. If you are staying elsewhere (like Wailea or Kihei), allow extra driving time.

Day 1: Arrival & Kapalua Beach --Check into your hotel, then head for Kapalua Beach. Don't overdue the sun on your first day. After an hour or two at the beach, drive to Lahaina and spend a couple of hours walking the historic old town. To really feel like you are in Hawaii, go to the Old Lahaina Luau at sunset to immerse yourself in Hawaiian culture.

Day 2: Up a 10,000-Foot Dormant Volcano & Down Again--You'll likely wake up early on your first day in Hawaii, so take advantage of it and head up to the 10,000-foot (dormant) volcano, Haleakala. You can hike in the crater, speed down the mountain on a bicycle, or just wander about Haleakala National Park. You don't have to be at the top for sunrise, but I have to tell you -- it is a near-religious experience you'll never forget. On your way back down, stop and tour Upcountry Maui, particularly the communities of Kula, Makawao, and Paia. Plan for a sunset dinner in Paia or Kuau.

Day 3: Hana Highway --Pack a lunch and spend the entire day driving the scenic Hana Highway. Pull over often, get out to take photos, smell the flowers, jump in the mountain stream pools. Wave to everyone, move off the road for those speeding by, and breathe in Hawaii. Plan to spend at least 2 nights in Hana.

Day 4: A Day in Heavenly Hana--An entire day in paradise, so many things to do. Take an early morning hike along the black sands of Waianapanapa State Park, then explore the tiny town of Hana. Be sure to see the Hana Museum Cultural Center, Hasegawa General Store, and Hana Coast Gallery. Get a picnic lunch and drive out to the Kipihulu end of Haleakala National Park at Oheo Gulch. Hike to the waterfalls and swim in the pools. Splurge on dinner at the dining room at the Hotel Hana-Maui. Spend another night in Hana.

Day 5: Wine, Food & (Hawaiian) Song--Continue driving around the island, past Kaupo and up to the Ulupalakua Ranch and the Tedeschi Vineyards and Winery. Stop at Grandma's Coffee House for a cup of java and head down the mountain, with a stop for lunch at Haliimaile General Store. Spend the afternoon at the Maui Ocean Center in Maalaea checking out the marine life, especially the sharks. Plan a dinner in Lahaina and see the drama/dance/music show Ulalena.

Day 6: Sailing to Lanai --Trilogy is the best sailing/snorkeling trip in Hawaii, so don't miss it. You'll spend the day (breakfast and lunch included) sailing to the island of Lanai, snorkeling, touring the island, and sailing back to Lahaina. Plus you still have the afternoon to go shopping for souvenirs or take a nap.

Day 7: Relaxing & Shopping--Depending on how much time you have on your final day, you can choose from relaxing on the beach, being pampered in a spa, or shopping for souvenirs and bargains. Spa-goers have a range of terrific spas, and shopping aficionados should check out some of my favorite stores. If you have a late flight, you might want to check out Iao Valley.

A Week on Molokai

The island of Molokai is for people trying to get away from everything or those looking for adventure. There are no direct flights from the mainland to Molokai so you will have to fly into Honolulu and then take a commuter plane to Molokai.

Day 1: Arrival & Kaunakakai--If you are staying in a condo or a vacation rental, head into Kaunakakai and stock up on groceries and supplies. While you're there, wander around the old two-street town and check out the stores. Be sure to stop at the Kapuaiwa Coconut Grove/Kiowea Park and watch the sunset.

Day 2: Ride a Mule to Kalaupapa --Your internal clock will still be set to mainland time, so you should have no problem getting up early and getting out to the Molokai Mule Ride. This adventure will take you through 26 switchbacks on a 1,600-foot cliff, and give you a chance to tour the Kalaupapa Peninsula, where people suffering from leprosy have lived for decades.

Day 3: Head for the Beach--Molokai not only has terrific beaches, but on weekdays they generally are empty! Depending on the time of year and the weather, great beaches for snorkeling are Murphy Beach Park (Kumimi Beach Park) and Sandy Beach on the East End, and Kapukahehu (Dixie Maru) Beach on the West End. Pack a picnic lunch or stop by the Outpost Natural Foods or the Sundown Deli in Kaunakakai. Stay all day. Relax.

Day 4: Hike in a Tropical Valley & Venture into Paradise--After a day at the beach, you'll be ready for a hike into the tropical jungle of Halawa Valley. Book with The Lodge at Molokai Ranch before you head out, as you cannot venture into the valley on your own without trespassing. Bring a picnic lunch for after the hike then spend the rest of the day on the beach at Halawa. Stop to see the fish ponds before you leave the East End.

Day 5: Outdoor Adventure--Spend a day kayaking, bicycling, or hiking on this Hawaiian oasis. Molokai Outdoors Activities can set you up with whatever equipment you need: kayaks, mountain bikes, or maps for hiking. My choice would be kayaking along the shallow water of the East End. Mountain bikers should know the best off-road bicycle trails in the state are on the Molokai Ranch and hikers should check out Pepeopae Trail or the Kamakou Preserve.

Day 6: Touring the West End--Since you've already seen the East End, spend a day touring the rest of the island. Start out with a tour of the central part of the island by driving out to Palaau State Park, which overlooks the Kalaupapa Peninsula, then stop off at the Molokai Museum and Cultural Center and take a coffee break at Coffees of Hawaii Plantation Store and Espresso Bar. Next head for the 3-mile-long, white-sand Papohaku Beach. After an hour or so at the beach, drive up to the cool air in Maunaloa town to see the best store on the island: the Big Wind Kite Factory & the Plantation Gallery.

Day 7: Moomomi Dunes: Archaeology Heaven--Before you catch your plane back, stop by the Moomomi Dunes, located close to the Hoolehua Airport. This wild, sand-covered coast is a treasure trove for archaeologists. Buried in the mounds are ancient Hawaiian burial sites, fossils, Hawaiian artifacts, and even the bones of prehistoric birds. If you have enough time, take the 20-minute easy walk west to Kawaaloa Bay, the perfect place to say aloha to Molokai.

A Week on Lanai

The smallest of all the Hawaiian islands, Lanai was once a big pineapple plantation and now is home to two exclusive resorts, hundreds of years of history, and just one small town with some of the friendliest people you will ever meet. Like the island of Molokai, there are no direct flights from the mainland to Lanai. You will have to fly into Honolulu and then take a commuter plane to Lanai.

Day 1: Arrival & Hulopoe Bay--After you settle into your hotel, head for the beach. The best beach on the island is the marine preserve at Hulopoe Bay. It's generally safe for swimming, and because it's a marine preserve, no one can take the fish, which means snorkeling is terrific and the fish are so friendly you practically have to shoo them away. On the way back, take advantage of the late-afternoon light and stop at the Luahiwa Petroglyph Field.

Day 2: Tour the Island in a Four-Wheel-Drive Vehicle--Lanai is a fantastic place to go four-wheeling. Generally you will not need a car if you are staying at one of the two resorts or at the Hotel Lanai (they provide shuttle bus service). So splurge and rent a four-wheel-drive vehicle for 2 or 3 days. Get a picnic lunch from Pele's Other Garden and head out of Lanai City to the Kanepuu Preserve, a 590-acre dry-land forest. Next stop is Garden of the Gods and a picnic lunch at Polihua Beach, Lanai's largest white-sand beach. The beach generally is not safe for swimming and it can be windy here, but it most likely will be deserted and you'll have a great view of Molokai in the distance. After lunch, reverse directions and head to Shipwreck Beach and then on to Keomoku Village.

Day 3: A Day at the Beach--Plan a lazy day at Hulopoe Beach. Get a good book, watch the kids play in the surf, or take a long slow walk around the crescent-shaped bay. Wander over to the Manele Bay Hotel for lunch poolside at the Pool Grille or over to the Manele Bay Clubhouse. Plan a nap for the afternoon or try your hand at some island crafts at the Lanai Arts Program.

Day 4: Hike (or Drive) the Munro Trail--If it has not been raining, and the ground is dry, do a little exploring. The adventurous can spend the day (plan on at least 7 hr.) climbing to the top of Lanai at Lanaihale on the Munro Trail. The not-so-adventurous can take a four-wheel-drive vehicle. Pencil in a soak in a hot tub on your return.

Day 5: A Day on the Ocean--Ring up Trilogy Lanai Ocean Sports and book a sailing/snorkeling, whale-watching, or scuba trip.

Day 6: Kayaking or Horseback Riding, followed by a Trip Back in Time--If you can't get enough time on the ocean, plan a kayaking tour in the morning by calling Trilogy Lanai Ocean Sports. A picnic lunch is included. Horse lovers should instead arrange a tour of Lanai through the Stables at Koele. In the afternoon, take a four-wheel-drive vehicle to the historic ruins of the old Kaunolu Village, on the southwestern side of the island.

Day 7: Biking & Shopping--The best way to get around the tiny village of Lanai City is via bicycle. Rent one from The Lodge at Koele and ride (downhill) into town. Lanai City has some terrific boutique shops that you'll find nowhere else.

A Week on Kauai

Hawaii's oldest island, ringed with white-sand beaches, is small and easy to circumnavigate in a week. But there are so many wonderful things to do and see that you may find yourself wishing you had more time.

Day 1: Arrival & Beach Time--After you settle in at your hotel, head for the beach. If you are staying on the south side, Poipu Beach is your best bet; on the east in the Coconut Coast area go to Lydgate State Park; and if you are on the North Shore, try Anini, Hanalei, Haena, or Kee beaches.

Day 2: Tour the North Shore--It rains often on the Garden Isle of Kauai, so the first sunny day, head out for the North Shore. Drive all the way to the end of the road to Kee Beach. Plan to hike a little on the famous Kalalau trail in Na Pali Coast State Park -- bring hiking shoes or close-toed tennis shoes. A half-hour on the trail will give you an idea of the spectacular coastline. The hearty may want to hike all the way to Hanakapiai Beach, a 2-hour trip one-way. After your hike, take a look at Ka Ulu O Laka Heiau at Kee Beach. Head into Hanalei for lunch, then drive down to Hanalei Bay for a quiet afternoon on the beach, or book at tour with Na Aina Kai Botanical Gardens to see one of Kauai's most beautiful (and whimsical) gardens. Plan to have dinner on the North Shore.

Day 3: See Kauai from the Air: Book a Helicopter Tour--Book a helicopter tour for Day 3, but not until 10 or 11am at the earliest to avoid the bumper-to-bumper commuter traffic. After your tour, head to the Coconut Coast for lunch. After lunch, go back in Hawaiian history at the Wailua River State Park. Since you are already in the area, book a luau at the Courtyard by Marriott Kauai-Waipouli Beach.

Day 4: Hiking Kokee State Park & Waimea Canyon--Get an early start, and drive up to the 4,640-acre Kokee State Park, where you will find a range of hiking trails to fit every ability. Birders, hikers, and sightseers will love wandering around this park. You can get lunch at the Kokee Lodge Restaurant, open from 9am to 3pm. Be sure to stop by the Kokee Natural History Museum, which is full of great information as well as trail maps. In the afternoon, stop at the "Grand Canyon of the Pacific," Waimea Canyon, with more great hiking. After you've had enough hiking for the day, don't miss the Kiki a Ola (Menehune Ditch) and the Russian Fort Elizabeth State Historical Park on your way out of Waimea town. Tip: A great time to plan this trip to Kokee and Waimea is on a Friday. Since you are already on the west side, you can attend Friday night's Art Night in Hanapepe and the terrific Hanapepe Cafe & Espresso Bar will be open for dinner.

Day 5: Beach Day--Kauai has the best beaches in Hawaii, so you should devote at least 1 day to it. If you're not the type to just lie around, you can book a kayak or snorkel tour (I particularly recommend a tour of the Na Pali Coast). If you've had enough sun to last you for awhile, then be sure and book a tour at Allerton Garden of the National Tropical Botanical Garden. On your way back from the Garden, stop and marvel at the very unusual Spouting Horn.

Day 6: Getting out of the Rain (or Sun)--It's best to plan for at least 1 rainy day on Kauai, but my rainy day suggestions are just as much fun to do when it's not rainy. The first thing I would do is book a Hawaii Movie Tour. An air-conditioned van takes you to some of the many spots on Kauai where films have been made, showing you clips of the movie on the spot it was made. Another great rainy-day activity is exploring the treasure-filled Kauai Museum in Lihue, or shopping at Kauai's unique markets.

Day 7: Spa Day--A treatment at a rejuvenating spa is a great way to end your trip. Kauai's best spa is the ANARA Spa at the Hyatt Regency Kauai. In addition to the fabulous menu of treatments, they also have a great area to relax, take a steam or a sauna, or just hang out in the hot tub. On the North Shore, try the Princeville Resort Kauai Health Club & Spa, which is small, but very good.