City Guide

Windsor--the site of England's best-known and greatest castle and its most famous boys' school, Eton--would be a captivating Thames town to visit, even if it were not associated with the royal Windsors. In summer it's overrun by tourists, which tends to obscure its charm.

The good news is that, after the disastrous fire of 1992, things are on the mend at Windsor Castle. But not without controversy--some of the new designs unveiled have been called a "Gothic shocker" and "ghastly." If you visit, you can decide for yourself.

Essentials

Getting There--The train from Waterloo or Paddington Station in London makes the trip in 30 minutes, involving a transfer at Slough to the Slough-Windsor shuttle train. There are more than a dozen trains per day; fares start at ?6.50 ($11.05) one-way or ?6.70 ($11.40) for a day return ticket. For information, call tel. 0345/484950 (in the U.K. only) or 01603/764776.

Green Line coaches (tel. 020/8668-7261) no. 700 and 702 from Hyde Park Corner in London take about 11/2 hours. A same-day round-trip costs ?6.50 ($11.05). The bus will drop you near the Town Guildhall. It's only a short walk up Castle Hill to the top sights.

If you're traveling by car, take M4 west from London.

Visitor Information--A Tourist Information Centre is located across from Windsor Castle on High Street (tel. 01753/743900). There's also an information booth in the tourist center at Windsor Coach Park. Both are open daily from 10am to 4pm, Saturday and Sunday 10am to 5pm.

Exploring The Town

Windsor is a largely Victorian town of brick buildings, with a few remnants of Georgian architecture. Near the castle, antiques shops, silversmiths, and pubs line cobblestoned Church and Market streets. Nell Gwynne supposedly occupied a shop on Church Street, which allowed her to be within shouting distance of Charles II's chambers. After lunch or tea, you may want to stroll along the aptly named 3-mile Long Walk.

On Sundays in Windsor Great Park and at Ham Common, you may see Prince Charles playing polo and Prince Philip serving as umpire while the queen watches. The park is also the site of the queen's occasional equestrian jaunts. On Sunday she attends a little church near the Royal Lodge. Traditionally, she prefers to drive herself there, later returning to the castle for Sunday lunch. For more information, call the Tourist Information Center (tel. 01753/743900).

Eton

From Windsor, Eton is just an easy stroll across the Thames Bridge. Follow Eton High Street to the college.

Eton College (tel. 01753/671177; www.etoncollege.com) was founded by the adolescent Henry VI in 1440. Some of England's greatest men, notably the Duke of Wellington, have played on these fields. Twenty prime ministers were educated here, as well as such literary figures as George Orwell, Aldous Huxley, Ian Fleming, and Percy Bysshe Shelley--who, during his years at Eton (1804-1810), was called "Mad Shelley" by his fellow pupils.

The history of Eton College since its inception is depicted in the Museum of Eton Life, located in vaulted wine cellars under College Hall. The displays include a turn-of-the-century boy's room, schoolbooks, sports trophies, canes used by senior boys to apply punishment to their juniors, and birch sticks used by masters for the same purpose. Also on display are letters written home by students describing day-to-day life at the school, as well as samples of the numerous magazines produced by students over the centuries. Many of the items on display were provided by Old Etonians. If it's open, take a look at the Perpendicular Chapel's 15th-century paintings and reconstructed fan vaulting.

Admission to the school and museum costs ?2.70 ($4.60) for adults. You can also take guided tours for ?4 ($6.80). Eton College is open from March 19 to April 14 and June 27 to September 3, daily from 10:30am to 4:30pm; April 15 to June 26 and September 2 to October 4, daily from 2 to 4:30pm. Call in advance; Eton may close for special occasions. These dates vary every year depending on term and holiday dates. It's better to call.

Organized Tours of Windsor Eton

Boat Tours--Tours depart from The Promenade, Barry Avenue, for a 35-minute ride to Boveney Lock. There's also a 35-minute tour from Runnymede on board the Lucy Fisher, a replica of a Victorian paddle steamer. The boat passes Magna Carta Island, among other places. Both tours cost ?3.60 ($6.10) for adults, ?1.90 ($3.25) for children. A 2-hour tour through the Boveney Lock and up past stately private riverside homes, the Bray Film Studios, Queens Eyot, and Monkey Island, is ?5.80 ($9.85) for adults, ?2.90 ($4.95) for children. In addition, longer tours between Maidenhead and Hampton Court are offered. The boats serve light refreshments and have a well-stocked bar, and the decks are covered in case of an unexpected shower. Contact French Brothers, Ltd., Clewer Boathouse, Clewer Court Road, Windsor (tel. 01753/851900; fax 01753/832303; www.boat-trips.co.uk).

Horse-Drawn Carriage Rides--You can also take a horse-drawn carriage for a half-hour promenade up the sycamore-lined length of Windsor Castle's Long Walk. Horses with carriages and drivers line up beside the castle waiting for fares, which run from ?40 ($68) for up to four passengers.

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London United Kingdom Tourism: Windsor & Eton

Windsor & Eton

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