City Guide

Rome is excellent for walking, with sites of interest often clustered together. Much of the inner core is traffic-free, so you'll need to walk whether you like it or not. However, in many parts of the city it's hazardous and uncomfortable because of the crowds, heavy traffic, and narrow sidewalks. Sometimes sidewalks don't exist at all, and it becomes a sort of free-for-all with pedestrians competing for space against vehicular traffic (the traffic always seems to win). Always be on your guard. The hectic crush of urban Rome is considerably less during August, when many Romans leave town for vacation.

By Subway

The Metropolitana, or Metro, for short, is the fastest means of transportation, operating daily from 5:30am to 11:30pm. A big red M indicates the entrance to the subway.

Tickets are 1€ ($1.15) and are available from tabacchi (tobacco shops, most of which display a sign with a white T on a brown background), many newsstands, and vending machines at all stations. Some stations have managers, but they won't make change. Booklets of tickets are available at tabacchi and in some terminals. You can also buy passes for 1 to 7 days.

Building a subway system for Rome hasn't been easy because every time workers start digging, they discover an old temple or other archaeological treasure, and heavy earth-moving has to cease for a while.

By Bus & Tram

Roman buses and trams are operated by an organization known as ATAC (Azienda Tramvie e Autobus del Comune di Roma), Via Volturno 65 (tel. 800-431784 for information).

For 1€ ($1.15) you can ride to most parts of Rome, although it can be slow going in all that traffic, and the buses are often very crowded. Your ticket is valid for 75 minutes, and you can get on many buses and trams (and subway) during that time by using the same ticket. Ask where to buy bus tickets, or buy them in tabacchi or bus terminals. You must have your ticket before boarding because there are no ticket-issuing machines on the vehicles.

At Stazione Termini, you can buy a 1-day ticket (biglietto giornaliero), which costs 4€ ($4.60), or weekly ticket (siglietto settimanale "carta"), which costs 16€ ($18). These passes allow you to ride the ATAC network without buying individual tickets. A tourist pass costs 11€ ($13) and is valid for 3 days. The tourist pass, the biglietto giornaliero, and the biglietto settimanale tickets are valid on buses, trams, and the subway -- but never ride the trains when the Romans are going to or from work, or you'll be smashed flatter than fettuccine. On the first bus you board, you place your ticket in a small machine, which prints the day and hour you boarded, and then you withdraw it. You do the same on the last bus you take during the valid period of the ticket.

Buses and trams stop at areas marked FERMATA. At most of these, a yellow sign displays the numbers of the buses that stop there and a list of all the stops along each bus's route in order, so you can easily search out your destination. In general, they're in service daily from 6am to midnight. After that and until dawn, you can ride on special night buses (they have an N in front of their bus number), which run only on main routes. It's best to take a taxi in the wee hours -- if you can find one.

At the bus information booth at Piazza dei Cinquecento, in front of the Stazione Termini, you can purchase a directory complete with maps summarizing the routes.

Although routes change often, a few reliable routes have remained valid for years, such as no. 75 from Stazione Termini to the Colosseum, H from Stazione Termini to Trastevere, and no. 40 from Stazione Termini to the Vatican. But if you're going somewhere and are dependent on the bus, be sure to carefully check where the bus stop is and exactly which bus goes there -- don't assume that it'll be the same bus the next day.

Two Bus Warnings -- Any map of the Roman bus system will likely be outdated before it's printed. Many buses listed on the "latest" map no longer exist; others are enjoying a much-needed rest, and new buses suddenly appear without warning. There's also talk of completely renumbering the whole system soon, so be aware that the route numbers we've listed might have changed by the time you travel.

Take extreme caution when riding Rome's overcrowded buses -- pickpockets abound! This is particularly true on bus no. 64, a favorite of visitors because of its route through the historic districts and thus also a favorite of Rome's vast pickpocketing community. This bus has earned various nicknames, including the "Pickpocket Express" and "Wallet Eater."

By Taxi

Don't count on hailing a taxi on the street or even getting one at a stand. If you're going out, have your hotel call one. At a restaurant, ask the waiter or cashier to dial for you. If you want to phone for yourself, try one of these numbers: tel. 06-6645, 06-3570, or 06-4994.

The meter begins at 2.35 € ($2.70) for the first 3km (1 3/4 miles) and then rises .65€ (75¢) per kilometer. Every suitcase costs 1€ ($1.15), and on Sunday a 3.35 € ($3.85) supplement is assessed. There's another 4.90 € ($5.65) supplement from 10pm to 7am. Avoid paying your fare with large bills -- invariably, taxi drivers claim that they don't have change, hoping for a bigger tip (stick to your guns and give only about 10%).

By Car

All roads might lead to Rome, but you don't want to drive once you get here. Because the reception desks of most Roman hotels have at least one English-speaking person, call ahead to find out the best route into Rome from wherever you're starting out. You're usually allowed to park in front of the hotel long enough to unload your luggage. You'll want to get rid of your rental car as soon as possible or park in a garage.

You might want to rent a car to explore the countryside around Rome or drive on to another city. You'll save the most money if you reserve before leaving home. But if you want to book a car here, Hertz is at Via Vittorio del Gallopatoio 33, near the parking lot of the Villa Borghese (tel. 06-3216831; Metro: Barberini); Italy by Car is at Via Ludovisi 60 (tel. 06-4870010; bus: nos. 95 or 116); and Avis is at Stazione Termini (tel. 06-4814373; Metro: Termini). Maggiore, an Italian company, has an office at Via di Tor Cervara 225 (tel. 06-22935356). There are also branches of the major rental agencies at the airport.

Handy Tip -- Rome has four daily rush hours: to work (8-9am), to home for lunch (1pm), back to work (3:30pm), and to home in the evening (6-7pm).

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