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Architecture buffs may also want to seek out these notable buildings: The Lever House, built in 1952 at 390 Park Ave., between 53rd and 54th streets, and the neighboring Seagram Building (1958), at 375 Park Ave., are the city's best examples of the form-follows-function, glass-and-steel International style, with the latter designed by master architect Mies van der Rohe. Also in Midtown East is the Sony Building, at 550 Madison Ave., designed in 1984 by Philip Johnson, with a pretty rose-granite facade and a playful Chippendale-style top that puts it a cut above the rest on the block.

The Upper West Side is home to two of the city's prime examples of residential architecture. On Broadway, taking up the block between 73rd and 74th streets, is the Ansonia, looking for all the world like a flamboyant architectural wedding cake. This splendid Beaux Arts building has been home to the likes of Stravinsky, Toscanini, and Caruso, thanks to its virtually soundproof apartments. (It was also the spot where members of the Chicago White Sox plotted to throw the 1919 World Series, a year before Babe Ruth moved in after donning the New York Yankees' pinstripes.) Even more notable is the Dakota, at 72nd Street and Central Park West. Legend has it that the angular 1884 apartment house -- accented with gables, dormers, and oriel windows that give it a brooding appeal -- earned its name when its forward-thinking developer, Edward S. Clark, was teased by friends that he was building so far north of the city that he might as well be building in the Dakotas. The building's most famous resident, John Lennon, was gunned down outside the 72nd Street entrance on December 8, 1980; Yoko Ono still lives inside.

Harlem's Architectural Treasures

Originally conceived as a bucolic suburbia for 19th-century Manhattan's monied set, Harlem has always had more than its share of historic treasures. To find them, pay a call on the Astor Row Houses, 130th Street between Fifth and Lenox avenues, a fabulous series of 28 red-brick town houses built in the early 1880s by the Astor family and graced with wooden porches, generous yards, and ornamental ironwork.

Equally impressive is Strivers' Row, West 139th Street between Adam Clayton Powell Jr. and Frederick Douglass boulevards, where hardly a brick has changed among the gorgeous McKim, Mead & White neo-Italian Renaissance town houses since they were built in 1890. Once the original white owners had moved out, these lovely houses attracted the cream of Harlem, "strivers" like Eubie Blake and W. C. Handy.

Handsome brownstones, limestone town houses, and row houses are sprinkled atop Sugar Hill, 145th to 155th streets, between St. Nicholas and Edgecombe avenues, named for the "sweet life" enjoyed by its residents. In the early 20th century, such prominent blacks as W. E. B. DuBois, Thurgood Marshall, and Roy Wilkins lived in the now-landmark building at 409 Edgecombe Ave.

And if you're venturing uptown this far, don't miss the Jumel Terrace Historic District, west of St. Nicholas Avenue between 160th and 162nd streets. Of particular note is Sylvan Terrace, which feels more like an upstate Hudson River town than a part of Harlem -- well worth seeking out for architecture lovers. A walk along it will lead you directly to the grand Morris-Jumel Mansion, which is open to the public for tours.

In Search of Historic Homes

The Historic House Trust of New York City preserves 19 houses, located in city parks in all five boroughs. Those particularly worth seeking out include the Morris-Jumel Mansion, in Harlem at 65 Jumel Terrace, at 160th Street, east of St. Nicholas Avenue (tel. 212/923-8008; www.morrisjumel.org; Wed-Sun 10am-4pm), a grand Colonial mansion built in the Palladian style (ca. 1765) and now Manhattan's oldest surviving residential house.

Built around 1764, the Dyckman Farmhouse Museum, farther uptown at 4881 Broadway, at 204th Street (tel. 212/304-9422; www.historichousetrust.org; Tues-Sun 11am-4pm), is the only Dutch Colonial farmhouse remaining in Manhattan, stoically and stylishly surviving the urban development that grew up around it.

The simple Edgar Allan Poe Cottage, 2460 Grand Concourse, at East Kingsbridge Road in the Bronx (tel. 718/881-8900; www.bronxhistoricalsociety.org; Sat 10am-4pm, Sun 1-5pm), was the last home (1846-49) of the brilliant but troubled poet and author, who moved his wife here because he thought the "country air" would be good for her tuberculosis. The house is outfitted as a memorial to the writer, with period furnishings and exhibits on his life and times.

The Merchant's House Museum [ST], 29 E. 4th St., between Lafayette Street and Bowery in NoHo (tel. 212/777-1089; www.merchantshouse.com; Thurs-Mon 1-5pm), is a rare jewel: a perfectly preserved 19th-century home, complete with intact interiors, whose last resident is said to be the inspiration for Catherine Sloper in Henry James's Washington Square.

Each of the 15 other houses also has a fascinating story to tell. A brochure listing the locations and touring details of all 19 of the historic homes is available by calling tel. 212/360-8282; recorded information is available at tel. 212/360-3448. You'll also find information online at www.preserve.org/hht. Admission to each house is generally no more than $3 ($5 at Merchant's House).

Downtown Relics

New York is neither Rome nor Athens, yet the city can boast a few old structures, at least New World old. To find a good sampling of "ancient" New York, head downtown, where it all began.

You might want to first stop at the southern tip of the island at Battery Park where an old fort called Castle Clinton National Monument (tel. 212/344-7220; www.nps.gov/cacl) still stands. The fort, or what remains of it, was built between 1808 and 1811 to defend New York Harbor against the British. In the mid-19th century the fort was the city's first immigration center. A small museum was added to the monument in 1986, with exhibits that follow the evolution of the fort.

Not far from Castle Clinton at 1 Bowling Green is the relatively modern 1907-built U.S. Customs House, which houses the National Museum of the American Indian, George Gustav Heye Center. Designed by Cass Gilbert and now a National Historic Landmark, the granite structure features giant statues carved by Daniel Chester French (of Lincoln Memorial fame) lining the front that personify Asia (pondering philosophically), America (bright-eyed and bushy-tailed), Europe (decadent, whose time has passed), and Africa (sleeping). Inside, the airy oval rotunda designed by Spanish engineer Raphael Guastavino was frescoed by Reginald Marsh to glorify the shipping industry (and, by extension, the Customs office once housed here).

One of Wall Street's most recognizable sights is the imposing, majestic Federal Hall National Memorial, 26 Wall St. (tel. 212/825-6888; www.nps.gov/feha). Built in 1842, the Memorial, with the 1883-built statue of George Washington on the steps, and directly across from the New York Stock Exchange, was erected on the site of New York's first City Hall. Inside it's now a museum, with exhibits that elucidate the events surrounding the Memorial and other aspects of American history. The infrastructure of the Memorial suffered from the massive shock of the nearby attack on the World Trade Center; as a result, the Memorial is undergoing a $16-million rehabilitation. Call to see if the museum's reopened in time for your visit.

George Washington was a very visible presence in 18th-century New York and he worshiped at the still standing St. Paul's Chapel, built in 1766 and part of the Trinity Church at 74 Trinity Place (tel. 212/602-0800). The Chapel now serves as a memorial to the victims of 9/11.

So now we know where Washington worshiped, but where did he eat? The answer is at Fraunces Tavern, the same place where Washington bade farewell to his officers at the end of the American Revolution. This 1907-built tavern is an exact replica of the original 1717 tavern. It's now a museum, 54 Pearl St., near Broad Street (tel. 212/425-1778; www.frauncestavernmuseum.org), and an actual restaurant.

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