City Guide

There isn't much more New York than a bagel, and New Yorkers are very loyal to their favorite bagel purveyors; in fact, discussions about who makes the best bagel can lead to heated arguments. Following are the top contenders:

Absolute Bagels, 2708 Broadway, between 107th and 108th streets (tel. 212/932-2105). A new player on the bagel scene, their egg bagels, hot out of the oven, melt in your mouth, and their whitefish salad is perfectly smoky though not overpowering.

Ess-A-Bagel, 359 First Ave., at 21st Street (tel. 212/260-2252; www.ess-a-bagel.com). When it comes to size, Ess-a-Bagel's are the best of the biggest; plump, chewy, and oh so satisfying. Also at 831 Third Ave., between 50th and 51st streets (tel. 212/980-1010).

H&H Bagels, 2239 Broadway, at 80th Street (tel. 212/595-8003; www.handhbagel.com). Long reputed as the best bagel in New York -- which may have resulted in the arrogant price hike to $1 a bagel. Some complain they are a bit too sweet, but I disagree. The bagels here are always fresh and warm, the bagel aficionado's prerequisite. Also at 639 W. 46th St., at Twelfth Avenue (tel. 212/595-8000). Take out only.

Murray's Bagels, 500 Sixth Ave., between 12th and 13th streets (tel. 212/462-2830); and 242 Eighth Ave., at 23rd Street (tel. 646/638-1334). There's nothing like a soft, warm bagel to begin your day with, and Murray's does them beautifully. Their smoked fish goes perfectly on their bagels.

Pizza, New York-Style

Once the domain of countless first-rate pizzerias, Manhattan's pizza offerings have noticeably dropped in quality. The proliferation of Domino's Pizza, Pizza Hut, and other fast-food chains into the market have lowered pizza standards. Still, there is plenty of good pizza to be found. Don't be tempted by sad imitations; when it comes to pizza, search out the real deal. Here are some of the best.

Grimaldi's Pizzeria, 19 Old Fulton St., between Front and Water streets (tel. 718/858-4300; www.grimaldis.com). If you need incentive to walk across the Brooklyn Bridge, Grimaldi's, in Brooklyn Heights, easily provides it. In fact, the pizza is so good, made in a coal oven with a rich flavorful sauce and homemade mozzarella, you might run across the bridge to get to it. Be warned, it can get very crowded at dinnertime.

John's Pizzeria, 278 Bleecker St., near Seventh Avenue South (tel. 212/243-1680). Since it has expanded from this original location -- there are now three outlets in the city -- the once-gleaming luster of John's has faded slightly, but the pizza is still a cut above all the rest. Thin-crusted, and out of a coal oven with the proper ratio of tomato sauce to cheese, John's pizza has a very loyal following. Though the quality at all of the locations is very good, the original Bleecker Street location is the most old-world romantic and my favorite. Also at 260 W. 44th St., between Broadway and Eighth Avenue (tel. 212/391-1560); and 408 E. 64th St., between York and First avenues (tel. 212/935-2895).

Lombardi's, 32 Spring St., between Mulberry and Mott streets (tel. 212/941-7994; www.lombardispizza.com). Claiming to be New York's first "licensed" pizzeria, Lombardi's opened in 1905 and still uses a generations-old Neapolitan family pizza recipe. The coal oven kicks out perfectly cooked pies, some topped with ingredients such as pancetta, homemade sausage, and even fresh-shucked clams. It's hard to go wrong here no matter what tops the pizza. A garden in the back makes it even more inviting during warm weather.

Patsy's Pizzeria, 2287 First Ave., between 117th and 118th streets (tel. 212/534-9783). My favorite, and also the favorite of Frank Sinatra, who liked it so much he had pies packed and flown out to Las Vegas. The coal oven here has been burning since 1932 and though the neighborhood in East Harlem where it is located has had its ups and downs, the quality of pizza at Patsy's has never wavered. Try the marinara pizza, a pie with fresh marinara sauce but no cheese that's so good you won't miss the mozzarella. Unlike the other pizzerias mentioned here, you can order by the slice at Patsy's. Don't be fooled by imitators using Patsy's name; this is the original and the best.

Totonno's Pizzeria Napolitano, 1524 Neptune Ave., between West 15th and West 16th streets, Coney Island, Brooklyn (tel. 718/372-8606). This unassuming little pizzeria has been at the same spot since 1924 and it makes pizzas almost exactly as it did 80 years ago -- thin crust, fresh sauce, and mozzarella, and that's about it. Don't even think about asking for an exotic topping on these pies (and why would you?). Enjoy it in all its simple unadorned glory. Totonno's second branch, on the Upper East Side, 1544 Second Ave., between 80th and 81st streets (tel. 212/327-2800), opened about 10 years ago -- go ahead and order the exotic toppings there, but for the real deal, go to Coney Island.

Ice-Cream Fever

It's an addiction. I have cravings that occur almost daily that are only satisfied by a decadently sweet fix. Like so many others, I am an ice-cream junkie. But I am fortunate to live in New York, where I can fulfill this constant need with some of the finest quality stuff that can be found anywhere. If you suffer as I do, here are some of the city's best sources to help get you through the day.

Brooklyn Ice Cream Factory, Fulton Ferry Landing Pier, Brooklyn (tel. 718/246-3963). The best ice cream in New York can be found right over the Brooklyn Bridge. Everything is freshly made, including the hot fudge for your sundae.

Chinatown Ice Cream Factory, 65 Bayard St., between Mott and Elizabeth streets (tel. 212/608-4170). In Chinatown, this is perfect after a spicy Chinese meal. The ice cream here features exotic Asian flavors like almond cookie, litchi, and an incredible green tea.

Cold Stone Creamery, 253 W. 42nd St., between Seventh and Eighth avenues (tel. 212/398-1882; www.coldstonecreamery.com), and 1651 Second Ave., at 86th Street (tel. 212/249-7080). This Arizona-based ice-cream franchise broke into the New York market in 2003 and I'm not complaining. No, the more options to satisfy my insatiable need, the better. At Cold Stone, or "Stone Cold" as I refer to them, the rich, "creamy" ice cream is mixed on a frozen granite stone and made into creations like "mud pie mojo," "coconut cream pie," and "our strawberry blonde."

Custard Beach, 2 World Financial Center (tel. 212/786-4707). This is the best soft ice cream I've had since my summers down the shore.

Il Laboratorio del Gelato, 95 Orchard St., between Broome and Delancey streets (tel. 212/343-9922; www.laboratoriodelgelato.com). Jon Snyder, the owner of this remarkable little ice-cream/gelato shop on the Lower East Side, creates sweet magic in his laboratory. I, for one, am willing to sacrifice in the name of science by taste-testing any of his new delicious concoctions.

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