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When one of history's greatest shoppers, Thomas Jefferson, wanted, say, an ivory-handled knife or a timepiece, he headed for the Palais Royal, 1e (Métro: Louvre-Palais-Royal), just across rue de Rivoli from the Louvre. Even before the Revolution, the arcades of the Palais Royal were known for their sheltered shops and cafes.

Paris is rich in iron-and-glass galleries, the first "shopping malls" of the Western world, but some are a bit seedy. In our view, none has the charm of the Palais Royal. You can enter, among other choices, the arcades from the rue de Montpensier behind the Comédie-Française.

You can spend a lovely afternoon following in the footsteps of former residents Colette or Jean Cocteau. The merchandise? Almost anything. As you wander, here's a sampling of what might await you: military medals, traditional lead-made French toy soldiers, vintage clothes from any number of fashionistas (perhaps creations of Patou or Balenciaga), silk vests, wooden toys, music boxes, accessories for women, bronze sculptures, china, cobalt glass, perfumes, antiques (mainly neoclassical), autographs of famous French celebrities, handcrafted shoes -- you name it.

Expensive Le Grand Véfour, one of the greatest restaurants of Paris, is recommended in chapter 7. You can dine much more modestly at restaurant du Palais Royal, 110 galerie de Valois (tel. 01-40-20-00-27), which is closed Sunday. In summer the restaurant's tables spread out into the garden. Or you can order tea at La Muscade, 67 galerie de Montpensier (tel. 01-42-97-51-36), with its restored garden. Treat yourself to the orange-and-chocolate tart. Closed Monday.

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